Tag Archives: Paris

Return to Paris and changing eating habits

dinnerDuring the last 24 hours I have had many meals: a Malaysian dinner in Kuala Lumpur just before heading to the airport, a Cajun-inspired snack and a Malaysian nasi lemak breakfast on Emirates flight KUL-DXB, and an Arabic mezze breakfast and an Indian lunch on Emirates flight DXB-CDG.

When we arrived at home in Paris around 3pm this afternoon, it was dinnertime in Kuala Lumpur and the question what to eat arose… Naturally we had been eating a lot of noodles, fried rice, laap, Thai soups and salads during our just over three week stay in Southeast Asia. We asked ourselves what was it in the French (or European) cuisine that we really craved and nothing special came to our mind apart from fresh salad, French cheese and smoked salmon. Had we had a bit more energy, oysters would have been nice as well!

The plates are empty and it is now 7pm. I will probably break my all-time record, but I am going to sleep now.

PS Due to weak connection I was not able to write as much as I had planned to. This and next week there will be posts about Siem Reap, the temples (Angkor Wat etc) and the surroundings, more writing about Laos and particularly Luang Prabang (Unesco Heritage Site), something on Thailand even if I cannot call it the best part of the trip (we went to Koh Lipe), and lastly about Langkawi, Malaysia, where we stayed at an amazing boutique hotel. À bientôt until then!

En route from Paris to Kuala Lumpur via Dubai

It was probably the very last time we try to take the RER train from Gare du Nord to Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG). Recently, every time we have tried to do so, we have failed. This time it was because of a body found on the tracks… sad but not atypical, and as a result, all trains cancelled. Taxi!

Safe and well ahead of time, we arrived at the terminal 2C at CDG airport, and you know what: it immediately felt like traveling toward affluence and prosperity. Terminal 2C caters for travelers flying to Asia and Africa, where the world’s economic growth is happening, and it was clear that the terminal was ready to serve clients with high purchase power. There was a seafood bar serving the best champagne, oysters and caviar, and Ladurée for those with a sweet tooth; not forgetting all major French and international fashion houses.CDG airport terminalLaduree, CDG airport terminalOur Paris-Dubai leg was flown by Emirates A380 aircraft and the terminal where we landed in Dubai was brand new, opened in January this year, specifically designed to cater A380 aircraft travelers.

Once again, we were spoiled by a beautiful terminal with shops and restaurants one would not typically see at airports.  One of those restaurants is the Belgium Le Pain Quotidien where the concept it to share a cozy croissant, sandwich or salad moment in a wooden, rustic setting. Le Pain quotidien, Dubai airportFor beer lovers, there is Heineken Lounge, and New York-style hamburger lovers have their Shake Shack. Both have a reputation for serving delicious food.Heineken Lounge, Dubai airportShake ShackBoth in Paris and Dubai, I felt that this was the right direction: people spend so much time at airports and different terminals, and it is really no longer enough to provide just a few restrooms and wireless internet. Travelers want more comfort but they also want more variety. Terminals do not all need to look the same and it is OK to make interesting choices in terms of the offer. People want to see terminals and airports as places where one can spend nice, quality time. A bit like at home!

I look forward to my return to Emirates A380 Hub in early March –who would not like to spend some fun time in a terminal as lovely as this!?

Emirates A380 Hub: http://www.emirates.com/english/flying/emirates-a380/hub.aspx

Shake Shack at Emirates A380 Hub: http://www.shakeshack.com/location/dubai-dxb-airport/

Where to eat duck in Paris?

We are going to have almost one full month to enjoy Asian food, so it sounded like a logical idea to do a typical French meal before departing France. What we particularly fancied was duck: either magret de canard or confit.

In the summertime, and when we are particularly hungry, we visit Chez Papa in front of the Montparnasse Cemetery. I now hear you thinking “aren’t there so many more sophisticated restaurants to eat duck in Paris”, and I agree with you, but I have my reasoning. Chez Papa is a franchise so the quality is not exactly the same in each restaurant, but we like this particular Chez Papa because it is very reasonably priced, the portions are huge, terrace is nice and the manager pleasant. Additionally, knowing you are so close to Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir adds something to your dining experience…menu chez gladinesHowever, this time we wanted to find something within walking distance from our home and headed toward Boulevard Saint-Germain. We had a vague memory of walking by a rather large terrace of a Sud-Ouest (southwest of France) restaurant in the 5th arrondissement last summer, and soon enough we arrived at Chez Gladines.

As we entered, we were greeted by a genuinely friendly young man who said we would have a table in few minutes –just enough time to have un apéritif it meant! Before we noticed, we got our table.

The menu had plenty of variety: plates of different cold meats, potato dishes, three types of snails (parsley, blue cheese and Basque style), entrecôte, different types of duck as we had wanted, etc. There was also a large offer of Basque specialties and even andouillette, the famous (very smelly!) sausage made of intestines and pork…snails chez gladinesWe shared parsley snails for a starter. The snails were good-sized, but maybe lacked some garlic and more parsley to be perfect. For his main course my husband chose magret de canard (served with sautéed potatoes and salad) and he said it was high-quality duck. I took piments piquillos à la morue because while in the Basque country last September, I chose this dish whenever it was on the menu and I like the combination of ingredients. Basically you are eating cod-stuffed piquillo peppers that come from Northern Spain (and are very rich in vitamine C). I love fish, I could eat a dozen of these piquillos. At Chez Gladines they were served in a creamy sauce that softened the fish taste.main courses chez gladinesTo show our respect to the lovely Basque country, we ordered a bottle of Irouléguy (red wine) and finished our dinner with local cheese served with cherry confiture.

The clientele was quite student-like, but we will definitely return to Chez Gladines, at the latest during the summer to eat at the terrace. Moreover, the restaurant is very down to earth and the service friendly. Yet a bit noisy, I would imagine this restaurant being a nice place for a family to taste typical Sud-Ouest and Basque dishes. Worth mentioning are prices: wine bottles start at an unbeatable 12.50€, snails cost 8.90€ and main courses are around 13€ (mine was 10.90€ and my husband’s 12.90€). What else –go and enjoy as we did.

Chez Gladines: http://gladines-restaurant-paris.fr

Chez Papa: http://www.chez-papa.com

Paris after the rain

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The rain has stopped and it is time to head out. This is the view from our balcony. The Seine is less than 100 meters on your left. Le Marais is right in front of you. We live in the 4th arrondissement, one of the oldest parts of Paris. I need to find some old maps of Paris to find out the exact location, but there used to be an island called Île Louviers where we now live. If you google the map of Paris, you will see two islands in the center of Paris: Île de la Cité (where Notre Dame is) and Île Saint-Louis. Île Louviers was located on the right from Île Saint-Louis, towards La Bastille. Obviously the island doesn’t exist anymore, and it was attached to “mainland Paris” in 1847 (a few earlier than our building was constructed). History is fascinating!

Algerian restaurant l’Atlantide in Paris

The moment we decided to have North African food for dinner on Friday night the puzzle begun. Where to go? Even if we know plenty of North African restaurants in Paris, the beauty of eating out is also about discovering new things. My husband had read Le Figaro‘s review of Paris’s top ten couscous restaurants and we used it as our compass. Direction: L’Atlantide, Parc Buttes Chaumont, the 19th arrondissement! L'AtlantideI discovered North African dishes when I moved to Paris in 1999 and deepened my knowledge while working in Algeria. My husband used to eat couscous in his childhood once a month. Together we did an amazing trip across the Algerian Sahara some years ago and every night by the fire we were served the most delicious lamb couscous, prepared by our Tuareg guides. So, as you can imagine, a lot of wonderful memories associated with couscous!

Upon our arrival at L’Atlantide I felt right away that the restaurant may be Algerian. The nomad-like style (in comparison to the more common Mauresque-like architecture) reminded me of one of the couscous restaurants in Algiers. The menu pointed toward Kabylie: it is not in many restaurants that one can find a typical Kabylie couscous dish called Ameqful where semolina is steam-cooked with seven different types of vegetables and mixed with olive oil in the end. And my intuition was right: the server confirmed that the restaurant is Kabylie, and specifically from Tizi Ouzou.L'AtlantideMy husband promised to taste Ameqful the next time and opted instead for Seksu, which is a more common couscous dish of vegetable stew served with lamb, grilled chicken and merguez sausages. I hesitated between a fresh vegetable tajine and a dried fruit tajine, and chose the latter. The accompanying grilled almonds, onion confit, dried raisins and prunes married well with the lamb, and the Moroccan red Guerrouane, Les Trois Domaines 2011, had a hint of the Mediterranean sun in it. Everything was very, very good, and on the top of everything, L’Atlantide is one of the least-expensive top couscous (and tajine) restaurants in the central Paris.

L’Atlantide: 7 Avenue de Laumière, 75019 Paris. Tel. 01-42450981. Metro: Laumière

Le Figaro review: http://www.lefigaro.fr/sortir-paris/2010/11/22/03013-20101122ARTFIG00674-le-test-des-meilleurs-couscous.php

The Michelin review: http://restaurant.michelin.fr/restaurant/france/75019-paris/l-atlantide/40xzl4u

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Previous posts about eating North African food in Paris are:

L’Alcôve: finest meat of Paris (also serves couscous and tajine, but the house specialty is grilled meat –delicious!)
L’Homme Bleu: Berber hospitality in the center of Paris (reputable couscous and tajine restaurant but I was disappointed during my last visit)
Le Tipaza: refined Moroccan food (a good address near the Eiffel Tower)

Saturday night Paris

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Full day of shopping in Paris. This is what it looked like when returning home. Now preparing a big Indian meal of chicken tikka & tandoori, korma vegetables, samosas and palak paneer. Will be washed down with a bottle of Château la Sauvageonne Cuvée Pica Broca 2009 (Coteaux du Languedoc). Namaste!

PS The tajine restaurant yesterday was DELICIOUS, so more about that tomorrow…

Highlighs of Paris weekend

Highlighs of Paris weekend

It was Jour de Fête, or should I rather say Week-end de Fête?

On Saturday we had a Berlin-based friend over for an apéritif. From our apartment we continued to a very Parisian bistro called Chez Janou in the 3rd arrondissement (http://chezjanou.com/). I know this bistro gets mixed reviews, the quality of food is not always consistent and the waiters can be a bit brusque, but we keep going there (and taking foreign friends there) for the following reasons:

1. It has that vieux Paris atmosphere and you would not be surprised if Édith Piaf sat next to you. Almost like in Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris!

2. Food is Mediterranean flavored and really, what can I say: tomato chèvre starter immediately brought sun shine to our evening, the duck tasted like any duck that has had a happy life, my husband’s entrecôte was very tender and the mousse au chocolat the table next to us ordered was HUGE!

3. Their kitchen is open until midnight (unlike most French kitchen that close around ten in the evening), so keep this in mind the next time you are in Paris and wonder where to dine…

On Sunday evening we were invited to a collection preview of a Paris-based Finnish designer, Petteri Hemmilä. The collection was displayed in a beautiful, edgy atelier of a Corsican-born artist, and while the Eiffel Tower was blinking, we sipped wine and learned about Petteri’s new adventures. As he merits a separate post on his work, I will be doing it very soon.

As we left the atelier, got out to the snow and rented the Autolib, we suddenly felt like visiting the South India again and started driving toward the Gare du Nord. The weekend ended with a South Indian thali and an onion rava masala dosa. Saravana Bhavan (http://www.saravanabhavan.com/) is an international chain that started in Chennai, Tamil Nadu, in 1981, and since then they have expanded to Muscat, Dubai, Ontario, New York and many other cities around the world. In Paris they opened in 2010 and since our first trip to the South India (December 2011-January 2012) we have been regular, very happy customers!

Voila. A new week has started and at least one party is scheduled. Paris is a city of surprises and every day often becomes Jour de Fête, so stay tuned!

Alvar Aalto bell lamps from 1937 find a new home in Paris

Alvar Aalto bell lamps from 1937 find a new home in Paris

The apartment we bought in Paris (75004) last year has amazing moldings and we were really afraid that they would get damaged during the four-month-long renovation. We hesitated about installing pendant lamps because drilling into the moldings would certainly damage them, or worse, the moldings could simply fall to pieces!!

This said, there was one exception: we wanted to buy two of these famous Alvar Aalto lamps, designed in 1937, and have them above the dining table. So, as the electrician started drilling, I stopped breathing and watched. And prayed. The moldings got damaged a tiny bit (there was no other way to install the electricity cables), but nothing dramatic happened. During the recent Christmas holidays we went to one of our favorite design stores in Helsinki called Artek, and bought two of these beautiful lamps. Today the lamps got a new life as my husband fixed them on the ceiling. We like them a lot, and having a good 20cm of snow in the balcony makes the day feel very Finnish!

Link to the lamps and ARTEK design store: http://www.artek.fi/products/lighting/144

Another link to the online Finnish (+Scandinavian) design shop: http://www.finnishdesignshop.com/