Tag Archives: Ukraine

Golden cupolas of Kiev

38 Replies

After publishing photos from the eastern Ukraine I got to thinking about my one-year stay in Kiev. Today I went through my photos from the Ukrainian capital, taken between 2005 and 2006, and here are some of the best shots of the famous golden cupolas that dominate the street view.

Kiev, the birthplace of Russia, is full of old Orthodox churches. Many of them are as old as Kyivan Rus.

Kiev, the birthplace of Russia, is full of old Orthodox churches. Many of them are as old as Kievan Rus’, making them more than 1000 years old.

...usually when visiting an orthodox (or any!) church you should cover your knees and shoulders...

…usually when visiting an Orthodox (or any!) church you should cover your knees and shoulders…

Orthodox churches dominate the street view in Kiev.

Wherever you look,  Orthodox churches dominate the street view in Kiev.

Golden cupolas against blue skies.

Golden cupolas against blue skies.

More golden cupolas against the otherwise grey city of Kiev.

More golden cupolas against the otherwise grey city of Kiev.

They do love blue color! One would almost think it has some symbolic value for the Orthodox church!

They do love blue color! One would almost think it has some symbolic value for the Orthodox church!

When life gets too hectic outside, there is always a place for a candle inside.

When life gets too hectic outside, there is always a place for a candle inside.

Some previous photos from Ukraine:

Photos of eastern Ukraine: part 1
Photos of eastern Ukraine: part 2
The Privoz market in Odessa

and more to come! Meanwhile, come and say hello on Twitter (@Miia_Niskanen), Instagram (Pearlspotting) or Facebook (Pearlspotting).

Photos of eastern Ukraine: part 2

22 Replies

The introduction to this post can be found in the previous post, Photos of eastern Ukraine: part 1, where I explained that I used to work in Ukraine from 2005 to 2006 and that I visited the eastern part of Ukraine many times for work.

Eastern Ukraine is a region of incredible mineral resources and it is no wonder that it was once the heart of the Soviet Union’s industrial production. I could visit factories that employ more than 10,000 people, meaning an entire town. The physical scales were huge, but so were some personal egos, too. I got a feeling that the region was home to some extremely powerful men, who made or broke the lives of the rest. In describing the region’s relation to Kiev, the capital of Ukraine, unity and co-operation were not the words I would choose.

This is the very same region that has been making headlines for too long now, the very same region that has been transformed into the latest battlefield of Europe.

Join me again to discover this region by photos I took during my visits:

Orthodox church in Donetsk.

Orthodox church in Donetsk.

"Metallurgical cinema": Soviet-time movie theater in Donetsk.

“Metallurgical cinema”: Soviet-time movie theater in Donetsk.

Donetsk, the city of metallurgical companies and mines.

Donetsk, the city of metallurgical companies and mines. Now a self-claimed People’s Republic…

I wonder what these women think of today's situation?

I wonder what these women think of today’s situation?

The main square of Donetsk has a big Lenin statue. What would he think of the current developments?

Lenin, standing on the main square of Donetsk just a few steps away from my hotel, became my object of observation.

Every other night I would go for a walk from my hotel and see demonstrations. Always supported by Lenin.

Every other night I would go for a walk from my hotel and see political demonstrations. Always supported by Lenin.

When this young man wore a shirt saying "For Ukraine without Yushchenko", little did he know that things would get much more serious....

When this young man wore a shirt saying “For Ukraine without Yushchenko”, little did he know that things would get much more serious than just getting rid of the President….

Any thoughts these photos brought to you?

Photos of eastern Ukraine: part 1

8 Replies

As you know, my blog is not about politics. However, these ongoing events in eastern Ukraine have stopped me many times, bringing some vivid memories from the times I visited that region for work. The region is very different from the rest of Ukraine: very industrial and very Soviet. Some say Russian. Polluted and grey. My visits took place after the Orange revolution and before the global economic meltdown, during the period of optimism. I met some wonderful and fascinating people, drank a fair share of vodka in meetings, and appreciated the chance to get to know the region. But I always felt that there was something very “wild east” over there.

Today I went through some old photos and I decided to publish some of them.

I suggest you take this blog post as a photo reportage and as an opportunity to look into the life of a region that has become a battlefield between the East and the West, and who knows what else. As an opportunity to time travel and revisit the period when Lenin was well alive and celebrated. As an opportunity to put a picture to the news you read every day.

Statues like this are not rare in eastern Ukraine.

Statues like this are not rare in eastern Ukraine.

During the winter months the region is cold and grey. This was once the heart of the Soviet Union's industrial production.

During the winter months the region is cold and grey. Once upon a time it was the heart of the Soviet Union’s industrial production.

Enormous factories often employed entire towns. Something that still happens in China I guess?

Enormous factories often employed entire towns. Something that still happens in China I guess?

A ghost factory somewhere between Donetsk and Luhansk.

A ghost factory somewhere between Donetsk and Luhansk.

Can happiness exist when there is so little color?

Can happiness exist when there is so little color?

Soviet wall frescoes remind us of an other era.

Soviet wall frescoes remind us of an other era.

Any thoughts you would like to share?

 

Special caviar delivery from Kiev to Paris, facilitated by Czech Airlines

Leave a reply

Flights between Paris and Kiev became very familiar to me during the year I worked in Ukraine. I think I knew the timetables of Air France and Ukraine International Airlines by heart. Not only I accumulated a crazy amount of miles, but I also got involved in international trade. When I left Paris for Kiev, I brought French red wine with me (my colleague was a big fan of Crozes–Hermitage), and when I left Kiev for Paris, I carried Russian caviar in a hand bag.

So, when a friend from Kiev informed me last week that she will be flying to Paris and asked what she can bring to me, I knew the answer: икра! A Russian word for black caviar.osetrova caviar from RussiaYesterday evening I went to pick up my friend from the Air France bus station. She had asked an air hostess if it is ok to store the caviar in the airplane’s fridge, and they allowed her to do so. My precious cargo was cold upon arrival in Paris, which is why I hereby send special thanks to Czech Airlines for facilitating the good and safe delivery of 100g of osetrova caviar to me!

The Privoz market in Odessa

7 Replies

In the series of world’s most interesting food markets, I will take you to the Privoz market in Odessa, Ukraine.  It is the biggest market in Odessa, probably the biggest in the entire Ukraine, and some say even in the world. I am not sure about its ranking, but Privoz certainly was on the top of our list when we were in Odessa in November 2005!Odessa Privoz marketThanks to Odessa’s important trade links with the East and the West, this market, founded in 1827, soon became very popular. The timing was right, too. Eight years earlier in 1819, Odessa had gained a free port status. During 1823-4 the famous Russian writer Pushkin lived in exile in Odessa, praising the city’s European feeling. In fact, thanks to its openness, the city was quickly filling up with different nationalities: Tatars, French, Armenians, Azeris, Jews, etc. that all had something in common: they were doing business at the Privoz market.Odessa Privoz MarketMy trip to Odessa in 2005 was fascinating. The city reminded me of Istanbul: the fact it had been in contact with so many different nationalities, religions and cultures during so many centuries had definitely made its citizens open-minded, curious and very friendly. Odessa to me was much more of a melting pot than for example Ukraine’s capital Kiev, where I was working at that time. Even the faces looked different than those I had seen in other parts of Ukraine. And yes, quoting Pushkin, it felt very European. I realized that Odessa was a truly international city, and had been it for a long, long time.Odessa Privoz marketBut back to the Privoz Market!

We strolled around for hours observing and taking photos. Even if the Privoz market sells almost everything you could imagine from construction materials to Chinese clothes and fake DVD films, we spent most of our time in the food section. These photos give you a biased view of the food section’s offer but if you appreciate fish as much as I do, you will enjoy the photos I am sure.Privoz market OdessaThere were a dozen species of dried fish, ready to be eaten as a snack with a glass of vodka. Fish heads were huge and were certainly ready to be dropped in dill-flavored water to become a soup. Shrimps seemed very fresh, too, and I wondered how they would be served. However, what most intrigued me were the seahorses. I knew the Chinese love them and use them in medicine to cure asthma, heart diseases, impotence and high cholesterol but I had not even known that the Black Sea has them…seahorse at Privoz marketWe did not buy anything from the market but it left a strong impression on us. I recommend everyone to visit it while in Odessa: the soul of Odessa waits for you at the Privoz market!

Information about our stay:

During our visit in Odessa, we stayed at Londonskaya Hotel, open since 1827 (like the Privoz market). It is a fantastic old-school hotel, full of history and centrally located (http://londred.com/en). When it comes to eating out in Odessa, we only had positive experiences. However, one restaurants was above the others: Dacha (http://www.dacha.com.ua/en). It is a little bit outside the city center, but definitely worth the trip.

PS Pearlspotting can now be found on Facebook, too!